Why must I look into the abyss?


After 24 hours of flying, I felt myself slipping into a dark void. I’m in Phnom Penh with my daughter Lucy for the first week of her tour of Southeast Asia. I always brace myself when I travel and have to remain vigilant regarding my mental health. After a couple of beers in the hotel bar, with a nice sitting area, we wound up falling asleep at 2 p.m. and sleeping through the night, although I woke up at 3 a.m. filled with anxiety, worrying that Lucy was in as much shock as I was.

To add to my anxiety, I worried that I had not properly reserved our full-day tour, with stops at a killing field and a Khmer Rouge prison. A voice told me that I had screwed up, and that we would miss our tour. I immediately resigned myself to failure and worried that it would taint her first full day in Phnom Penh.


All along, I have been so worried about her traveling alone. One reason I came with her was to hopefully provide some comfort and guidance. I viewed her as a weak link in her travel plans and myself as a somewhat expert, having traveled widely. Tossing and turning that night, my thoughts went dark, bringing me to a familiar position of glancing into a deep void, being pulled close to the edge. 


I suddenly realized that it was I who was the weak link. It was only after finally getting up at 5 a.m. and texting my concerns to our family group chat that I began to sense some relief, although still convinced that I had screwed up our day tour. I desperately emailed the tour guide, asking if we were indeed on the schedule. I had somehow missed a text from him sent a day earlier, which indicated that all was well.


Feeling much better, having taken my meds, I was relieved to see that Lucy was in good spirits and that she would not have been devastated had the tour not occurred. Steadily, I felt better and better and was happy to see our guide pull up to the hotel.


Prior to that, we had a free breakfast buffet and lots of coffee and juice, making me feel even better. It was my first time to have passionfruit, which looks like rotten pudding and has a sour but pleasant taste. Cambodia is very affordable, our room only costing $25 per night.

With us on the tour, we shared the van with two Poles, a Peruvian, and two Italians. Our tour guide proved to be very knowledgeable and a great driver in the crazy traffic, which makes me think of Brownian motion. On the tour we visited grand temples, but the highlight of the tour was a killing field where thousands of Cambodians were murdered as a part of Pol Pot’s evil scheme to create a classless society. We also visited a prison, which was converted from a former school, where innocent citizens were brutally tortured to death. It was quite a lot to take in, but was eye opening.


And here I sit in my hotel bed with the AC blasting, Lucy sleeping in the bed next to mine. I’ve had a shower (after a full day of sweating in very hot and humid weather), smoked my pipe, and am ready to sleep. Tomorrow, we take a bus to Siem Reap, which is where the very famous temples of Angkor Wat are located. Of course, I’m worried about finding the bus terminal and that somehow I screwed up the reservation, but I have turned my back on the abyss and tomorrow will be an even better day, as my grandfather used to say. Goodnight moon…

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